The Evanston bike guys plus Santa Barbara native Johnny Stillwell at Handlebar Coffee Roasters in Santa Barbara, our usual morning stop before we head out for the day. Out of the five guys in this photo besides me, four of them became good friends through cycling. Tom Waterloo, at right, is the guy Carol calls “the third person in our marriage.” Tom and I have been friends for years, and he was the best man at our wedding. At Handlebar Coffee Roasters.
We’re on Day 1,268 of the lockdown and we’re probably all going a bit crazy, though not crazy enough to drive to our respective state capitols and congregate closely with hundreds of others toting our AR-15s all while shouting, screaming and spitting, sans masks.
So today, I am writing about how the bicycle has taken me to so many beautiful places and introduced me to so many beautiful people.
These two topics could be book-length stories on their own, but for purposes of this post, I will just pick a few highlights from each category, often overlapping.The stories of each will be told in the captions for the images. I’ve loaded up way too many photos, so read at your leisure.
I met this fish head while out riding in Half Moon Bay, California with my friend Johnny Hansell. I met Johnny because he was one of our cycling guides on a family Backroads trip through Tuscany. I think that’s a ling cod head. This is just up the road from the San Gregorio General Store which is a really cool old place worth visiting on its own. — at San Gregorio General Store.
That’s me riding in the Blue Ridge Mountains on the border of North Carolina and South Carolina. For the past six years, a group of us have taken our bikes down to the Greenville, SC area for the annual Gran Fondo Hincapie in Travelers Rest, SC. The fondo is on Saturday, but we also ride on Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Beautiful country. — at Gran Fondo Hincapie. I think the photo is by Mike Baskin.
The inaugural ride of the F*ck Cancer jerseys, courtesy of Mike Baskin, while we were guests of Josh Frieman in Aspen, Colorado. This picture was taken at the lovely Landmark Cafe in nearby Carbondale, CO.
Mitch and I at our usual Thursday post-ride stop (pre-coronavirus) at Lama Dog in Santa Barbara. I miss those Thursday stops. — at Lama Dog — Tap Room + Bottle Shop.
Whenever I’m visiting my mom and dad in Half Moon Bay, California, I do a ride dubbed “The Sea Monster” by locals. Kris Nishkian, owner of Bike Works in Half Moon Bay, turned me on to the route many years ago. You can’t meet a nicer human than Kris, though after I did the ride the first time, I went back to the shop and said, “What the hell are you trying to do to me? You almost killed me!” 60 miles and 6,000 feet of climbing, most of that in the redwoods. It starts out along the ocean, but it is one of my favorite rides in the world. — at Bike Works HMB.
That’s Johnny Hansell chugging up Tunitas Creek Road among the redwoods, just south of Half Moon Bay, CA. On a weekday, you’ll see nary a vehicle, save for the occasional logging truck. It’s a steep climb, but so silent. The only sound you hear while riding uphill in the redwoods is your own labored breathing and pounding heart. — in Half Moon Bay, California.
For almost a decade, our group of friends have gone on an annual spring cycling/golf trip. (Some guys ride, some guys golf. A few do both.) An important part of these trips is eating. It’s a ritual. The legendary Dr. Daniel Derman, in the very foreground of this shot, is the master orchestrator and head chef of these events and we are his sous chefs. Anyone who doesn’t help cook, cleans. The meals are ALWAYS spectacular. Jeff Berk emcees the evening, asking a unique, insightful question of each attendee. I think that’s Jeff just out of the frame to Daniel’s right. This picture was taken at a spectacular house we rented just outside of Healdsburg in Sonoma County, California. — in Healdsburg, California.
Part of our cycle through Tuscany included stopping in Siena during the Palio de Siena, a series of horse races held in the town square (pictured here) that pit racers from each of the city’s 17 wards against one another. The races are crazy. And the cycling around there was superb. It was memorable and lovely. — in Siena, Italy.
I don’t remember what small town in Italy we were in when I took this picture, but as we were resting on a bench in a little park, these older Italian gentlemen rode in on their beautiful Italian bikes to cool down with splashes of water and refill their water bottles. It was a hot day, but these older guys were killing it on the steep, hilly terrain. They gave me hope for the future. I hope they are all well during the time of corona. — at Tuscany Countryside.
Great shot of the crew in the Blue Ridge Mountains. All but one of these guys became a friend through cycling. — at Blue Ridge Mountains.
The great thing about cycling is that if you do enough of it, you can eat like a horse and not gain weight. Here we are chowing down on some amazing tacos at White Duck Taco Shop in Greenville, NC. Highly recommended if you ever get down that way. — at White Duck Taco Shop-Greenville,SC.
At the end of the cold, wet day in the saddle. We look happy and we’re drinking beer, but we were pretty damn cold. Only Mitch Horwat did the full 80 miles and 8,000 feet of climbing. The rest of us did 60 miles and 6,000 feet, foregoing that last loop that included a climb with 17 switchbacks. That’s George Hincapie in the gray slacks between Mark Knepper and Tom Blunk. The ride begins and ends at George’s hotel, Hotel Domestique in Travelers Rest, SC. — at Gran Fondo Hincapie.
Drew Hincapie and her husband Rich are the organizers of Gran Fondo Hincapie. Drew is incredibly nice. We’re always happy to see her in October. When Mike Baskin first had the F*ck Cancer jerseys made, I sent Drew an email with a picture of us in the jerseys asking if it would be okay if we wore them to the ride. We didn’t want to offend anyone because there are lots of families at the event and it is in the heart of the Bible Belt. Drew responded, “Please wear them! A lot of people feel that way about cancer!” In fact, a lot of other riders comment positively about the jerseys at the event and ask where they can get one. Mike Baskin had business cards made for all of us to carry in our pockets with the web address to order the jerseys. A portion of the profits go to a foundation aptly named F*ck Cancer. Thanks for everything, Drew and Rich! — at Gran Fondo Hincapie.
Here we are at the border of Spain and France. We’re on the Spanish side. Our guide, Julen, from Basque Country Cycling is pointing out the border to Carol. We had just completed a long, steep climb. We had started in San Sebastián in the Basque region. The ride ended at an incredible restaurant, Singular, right on the border in Irún. The owner and chef of this exquisite spot is Iñigo Lavado. The restaurant is in a local convention center that includes full shower facilities, We cleaned up, put on fresh clothes (driven out by Basque Country Cycling), and were treated to one of the finest meals we’ve ever had, five courses of incredible dishes plus wine for each course. Thank god we didn’t have to ride back to San Sebastián. — at Basque Country Cycling.
My cousin Freda Kay often takes us on long rides in beautiful spots in Ireland. Freda lives in Westport, County Mayo and is a superb cyclist. Carol, Freda and I took a break while pedaling along the Cong Sportif, an organized ride that started in the village of Cong, County Mayo, where much of the film “The Quiet Man” was made.I love riding in the Irish countryside. — in Cong, County Mayo.
That’s my cousin Freda rolling up the long climb above Keem Bay on Achill Island in Ireland. Truly one of the most beautiful spots on the planet. — at Keem Beach, Achill Island.
Rolling along the path along the Pacific in Half Moon Bay. I never get tired of this ride. Never. — in Half Moon Bay, California.
Carol in front of a wall of nasturium on Gobernador Canyon Road in Carpinteria. This road winds its way through avocado orchards. A beautiful ride. — in Carpinteria, California.
Riding along in North Carolina. Tom Blunk, seen here in the red jersey, had a deer run out of the woods and leap over his head on this ride. Amazingly, Tom just kept riding. The deer took a tumble on the other side of the road then bounded off. — in Tryon, North Carolina.
The effervescent Johnny Hansell pedaling up a climb on Stage Road in San Gregorio, California, just south of Half Moon Bay. That was a spectacular day of riding.
Carol made it to the top of Gibraltar Road. That is a tough climb, 3,500 feet, but she is always up for any challenge, one of the reasons I married her!
I had an appointment with my radiation oncologist, Stan Liauw, at University of Chicago in Hyde Park. The night before had been incredibly windy creating huge waves that sprayed the trees along the lakefront. This photo was taken on the lakefront bike path just south of McCormick Place as I rode down to Hyde Park. Incredibly beautiful in the morning light. — at Chicago Lakefront Running/Biking Trail.
Doo Lough outside of Louisburgh, County Mayo, Ireland. I love this ride and do it every time I go back with my dad to his home town of Westport. A picture doesn’t really capture the beauty of this place. It takes my breath away every time I ride there. — at Doo Lough (Mayo).
Our summertime Friday beer ride. All who are available show up at Plaza del Lago in Wilmette at 2:30. The ride ends at Temperance Beer Co. in Evanston at 4:00. Not to be missed. — at Temperance Beer Co.
Don’t tell my family, but I secretly tried to get everyone to love cycling. Our daughters Sara and Anna (Sara pictured here with Carol in Italy) have all taken to it. It was a plot. It worked.
